Anyone who had voyage
by rail across or in and out of Kerala will have something in familiar –
enticing memories of river ‘Bharathapuzha’ or ‘Nila’, the legendary river
that adjoin the railway line to the south side.
Right
from Parli (The Railway station next to Palakkad) to Tirunnavaya (the last
station on the banks of the river on the route; placed in history by virtue
of ‘Maamaankam' - a festival celebrated in olden times once in twelve years)
and any traveler who suffers the monotony of remaining in the ‘iron box’ for
day or night gets relieved once he get a glimpse of the river; for it is a
relinquishing sight for anybody.
When your
ears get bespoke to the rack-tacks of the iron wheels, your eyes will take
you to the green landscape extending beyond the shores of the river. Paddy
fields, plantain cultivations, coconut palm trees and mango gardens run past
your view while the distant hills accompany you for a while, while you enjoy
the greenery, and natural coolness of the atmosphere, except if it is a
dread summer.
However you
are to get disappointed if you expect to see water pervade down the river,
for it has turned out to be rivulets in course of time, owing to various
changes in ecological patterns as well as regional castings, such that river
fill up to the banks only in monsoon when rainwater gush down at its fullest
swing. For a Keralite, or a ‘Malayalee’ as they prefer to be expressed, the
river is everything. Just like in any other part of the world, this river
too play the vital role in the culture and history of the place.
The river divides the
state into two - north-south which causes a rift not only in the land but
slightly to the cultural background too. Unlike other parts of Kerala, the
area have vast stretches of open plain land adorned by the view of the
distant horizon which is not possible elsewhere in the region owing to
generally dense vegetation and hilly terrain. (The sight in Kuttanad area of
Kerala, festooned with paddy fields and backwaters is similar to this, but
do not have the imagery of blue mountains in the distant as backdrop). The
charm of the region has fascinated many a poets that you can see the lyrics
cuddling the river and the shores in their poems in olden days. As of now,
most of the Malayalam film directors opt the scene of the river for their
finest frames. As for the railway line, while laying the railway track, the
British chose to follow the path of the river east-west up to the plain
land, as a more or less flat terrain gesticulated them to build up the line
while linking it to Malabar Coast of North Kerala for the onward
continuation to south Canara(Karnataka).
The river
‘Bharatha-puzha’ got its name from the epics where ‘puzha’ means just river
and Bharatha though correlates to the word ‘Hindustan’, here refers to
Bharathamba (Godess mother of Bharath – India). The river feeds people like
their own mother – (the water is divine – be it for drinking, irrigation or
other uses) that should be the allusion behind the name.
The river
has its geography spread over the districts of Palakkad and Malappuram in
Kerala and has its origin from the Annamalai in western ghats near Pollachi
in Tamil Nadu and traverse a distance of about some 100 km through forest
area as brooks and streams; and swathes the mainland for 125 km by virtue of
its tributaries supplementing it en-route before amalgamating into sea at
Ponnani. Ponnani is the oldest port and one of the trade spots of Malabar,
which await to be on the rail map on completion of the Guruvayur-Tirur link
line project.
The
prominent Malampuzha Dam intercepts the river near Palakkad, gateway of
Kerala (Palghat as the Britishers have named it and still in Railway
nomenclature as the place is bordered on the east by that part of Western
Ghats) where Southern Railway has one of its Divisional HQ. All along its
path the river never let you down offering a splendid scenery of the flora
and fauna as it glides along and try to catch up with your train; and your
trail thoughts, of course.
It beget
you envisage the nature’s beauty through a drapery of mist when your eyes
gaze into the distance. The area remain virgin sans frills of tourist
mania, save for the intruders indulged in trading of sand, which is now an
inevitable product for builders, being smuggled out day and night despite
restrictions. Railway line have an inseparable association with the river,
right from its inception to this day, running parallel for most of the
distance; a pleasant scene as far as railway tracks all over India are
concerned. Erstwhile engineers considered this river-terrace ideal for
laying rail-line not only because it holds a flat terrain but also owing to
ecological reasons. The river serves scores of drinking water projects and
lift irrigation schemes all along and nearby places, such that even
Guruvayur Temple township lying in 35 km apart, fetch water from
Bharathapuzha. Thus Rly Stations situated along this portion on the route
sparingly face water scarcity.
When the train glides
down the Walayar ghat and enter Palakkad; to the north you can see the huge
rising walls of Malampuzha Dam, which serves a huge area of cultivation,
and also attracts lot of tourists every time. All along its path the sight
of the river takes you back into archives; if you are a lover of history, or
nature even. But the river will turn you down if you expect navigation over
its waters, save during rainy season. Numerous dams constructed on its
tributaries help to preserve water for irrigation, but make it dry except at
the river mouth.
The river
or ‘Nadhi’ as it is the word in Malayalam, originates from the Western Ghats
as any other river in Kerala and has its name as Amaravathipuzha but so many
small rivers add on its course as tributaries. The first one is
Kalpathipuzha, the continuation of Malampuzha where the dam is situated and
the second one is Gayathripuzha, third is Thoothapuzha , the main tributary
and last one is Tirur puzha which often happens to be a branch whenever
water is splashed back during high tide owing to proximity to the sea.
Of these,
Thoothapuzha which emanate from the unique ‘silent valley’ in Western Ghats,
cross the rail track and joins the flow from the north side. Just as river
catchment spreads to distance, it’s cultural basins spread across distance
and time, as any river being a natural water resource, is the cause of
evolution.
This river has a rich
cultural heritage of its own as its basin has given birth to so many
laureates in the field of fine arts, literature, poetry and also remain a
stone plank in history of hordes of warriors too. Thus the area influenced
by this river extends from and to about fifty kilometers north south. Kerala
Kalamandalam renowned for the classical arts like ‘Kathakali’, ‘Koodiyaattam’,
‘Ottanthullal’ and other dance forms, is just on the banks at Shoranur , the
major Rly junction and the nerve centre of Rail traffic on the route. The
famous Ayurveda treatment centre of Kottakkal which is also another famous
place for entrepreneurs of ‘Kathakali’ lies at a nautical distance at a
higher altitude from where you can see the gliding river afar. Tiruvilwamala
the abode of Villwadrinathan, Avatar of Lord Vishnu is just stone’s throw
away from Lakkiti Station which happens to be also the birthplace of Kunchan
Nambiar, founder of “Ottan-Thullal” a unique dance-art form from Kerala.
Historians
are of the opinion that a cultural migration across western ghats had taken
place during the erstwhile rule of Pallava Dynasty. A part of the populace
from Deccan plateau also migrated to this side and they settled for the
fertile strip to become their domicile, giving rise to a culture-rich
tradition. Thus the land-belt begot the title of birthplace to so many
eminent personalities – from art aesthete Kunchan Nambiar to the eminent
poet Vallathol; the present day personality of the trait being Jnanapeedhom
honoured orator and cine-expert Shri M.T.Vasudevan Nair.
Each
Railway station on the route too has an inseparable historical note
connected with the river which you can explore if you are ardent enough but
ignored here to consolidate the subject. So next time when you travel by
rail over the area, look out and view the river with a new perspective lest
you may miss the charm.
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