The great old Chennai Mail
"Chennai is growing fast in every sector."
This was the message that got in mind when I began my
recent trip to Chennai after one and half decade.
This was also my first trip outside Kerala since my
arrival from Qatar.
The last two Chennai trips were during my college day’s
.Whenever Chennai comes to my mind, I would go to the school days and
recollect the lovely nostalgic flavour of Madras cakes that my father would
bring us during his travel to home.
Those special cakes have been my passionate item since
then.
Travelling by Chennai Mail (superfast) was interesting
with lot of fun and full of passengers.
Every journey can be an occasion to know oneself and
the world around us. Especially, train journey teaches us new lessons of
patience, mutual respect and many more.
There was one group of travelers hailing from Kannur
who engaged in songs and claps. Some of them seemed to be outperforming new
singers with their conventional style. They sung Mappila songs and old
melodies with their own music. Fellow passengers turned their head towards
that orchestra team and enjoyed their songs followed with comments.
Another group was engaged in playing cards along with
discussions of worldly matters.
How many tea and coffee I had my trip?!I really enjoyed
zipping tea and coffee during train journeys than regular days. I had
ordered for vegetable biriyani in the train. Interesting thing was that,
another guy came to me in the night and gave me the packet and I gave him
the price. But after some time the other guy (the real one who took the
order came!) My God.I told him I had already got it ...Actually I thought
the same guy who came to me to take order and serve meal....
Chennai mail has been an icon of history to Malabar
Malayalees who have made year long trust in small and big trade with Tamil
people. To Keralites Chennai is something more than a neighbour; a home away
from home for Keralites.
Hundreds of thousands of big and small merchants in
Chennai are from nowhere else than in Kerala. Many Malayalee families have
settled permanently in this coastal Tamil state.
'Time has ripened for alight’, say passengers to their
men, when the train passed the Basin Bridge.
Every one was preparing to get down from the train. A
lot of Malabar Malayalees with homely items packed for near and dear ones in
Chennai have been a usual sight in Chennai trains.
Many carried coconuts with their luggage for relatives,
which are more expensive there. Besides, Keralites enjoy the taste of homely
coconut food items than anything. The coconut in Chennai grows in salty
water. So the taste is also different.
Good Morning, Chennai
I opened my eyes towards the dawn of Chennai. The sky
seemed to be little misty.
Did Chennai change? Definitely, there was good sign of
infrastructure development.
There was plenty of space to relax than my old trip
inside and outside the railway station.
You need not look for a taxi or auto, because a number
of auto drivers would be waiting outside the central railway station.
'Auto porunkala?'
‘Taxi porunkala?'
(Offering auto and taxi in Tamil language), ask the
auto-taxi men.
Chennai seemed to be waking up from its late night
sleep. It was interesting to watch the early morning sights of Chennai
outside the railway station than going fast to Egmore by auto. [I had to
attend a program in the late evening at Egmore.]
I had some more time to spend on street!
I observed morning Chennai for some time sitting at a
bus- bay in front of Southern Railway headquarters.
People were busy to catch buses and autos. But the city
was not crowded. The bus number system was still there. It was organized
professionally in bus bays by indicating the number and destinations more
legibly.
Many auto men stopped and offered travel. After giving
them my hand- signals with 'nandry'(word for thanks in Tamil) from my
mind for their service mentality. (These clever guys might know that I was
an outsider who has come on a trip. That maybe why they approached me than
going to local travelers! It is a common talk among Chennai Maalayalees that
outsiders would be charged more by some auto-men in Chennai!)
Private advertisement on transport buses became usual.
Besides that political parties and other organizations stuck notices on
buses.
Milk man was fast moving in the town with milk cans on
his cycle rickshaw. He found out his own space among big and small
motorists. There were bike travelers with and without wearing helmets.
After a few minutes, I went by an auto to Egmore.I got
an accommodation nearby Egmore Railway station. The old traditional look was
still there amidst the changes, just same as the life and style of Chennai.
Egmore – in tune with roots
Egmore Railway station was maintained beautifully by
the railways. Private Cell Phone Company displayed their advertisement in
the frontage of the station. Chennai Egmore Railway station looks marvelous.
I had not much time to spend visiting many places
because it was a short schedule.
But I longed to read the life of Chennai. There was
vibrant life in all spheres.
Tamil people love their language and culture than
anything. It was expressed everywhere.
Whatever is the background, educationally and
financially, people's first priority is their language .They do not ignore
their roots and customs amidst any developments. This can be seen
everywhere, in public transportation, government programs and even in
private sectors.
Most of the educated gentle men and ladies speak pure
Tamil in public places.
Whether the traffic displays boards or any other
informative pieces, the leading language is Tamil. Digital display boards in
platform looked innovative.
The number of small unauthorized huts on road side
pavements has come down.
I enquired to lodge boy for a shop to iron my dress.
Fortunately, it was not far away.
I remember, in old days mobile iron shops were there
around city, especially in front of lodges and cottages.
I was happy because Saravana Bhavan was very near to my
room. Its Dosa varieties and different chutney items have been famous. Dosa
priced rupees 35.
Though adjacent states, Chennai and Kerala differ a lot
in food items. Pongal, sevai, variety rice (lemon rice, curd rice, tamarind
rice and so on) are unique to the Tamil State. Even for ordinary meals while
most Malayalees prefer bold rice, Tamilians use slender varieties. Keralites,
who have earned their bread in Tamil Nadu, naturally retain this even after
retirement and back home!
I had my tasty breakfast from there. Two foreign women
tourists were enjoying the cuisine on the third raw.
Most of the Tamilians wore Chandana (paste made of
sandalwood worn as a caste mark) or Vibhoothy (specially prepared powder of
dried cow-dung) on their forehead. Some were engaged in serious discussion
during tea- time.
There were plenty of newspapers and magazines outside.
In old days milking of she-buffaloes was usual sights
in the early morning in front of hotels and tea shops. But the live -milking
has been stopped due to traffic blockade. Milk is mostly supplied in
vehicles.
‘Net’ search
While
searching for a net café to check mail and take a print out of my program
invitation, some of the tour agents came to me and asked, “Bus, train,
air ticket ellam inke kidaykum…enke pokarthik?” (Bus, train and air
tickets are available here. What is your destination?)
The
area was filled with many travel and tour operators. They thought I was
looking for tickets!
Any way
each of them competed well for getting a customer. When I told them I was
looking for an internet café they lost the interest. For me it seemed like
an air-bursting balloon! But one of them showed me an internet café.
The
down stair of the shop sold stationery items and up stair worked as browsing
centre.
Surprisingly enough, I could not open or print the document in PDF format
.When I asked the lady staff there, she was helpless. I thought why these
people didn’t download at least a trial version of Acrobat, available free
on internet.
I just
checked mail and left the café.
'Visiting' for cards
I looked for a shop for designing and printing some
visiting cards. I entered one shop, offering urgent cards. It was part of a
house.
One or two guys were browsing net there. When I asked
for urgent visiting cards, the shop owner told me "Sorry. Today I am alone
here. It will take some time. Besides, today we will have a guest and I am
busy”, saying this in a requesting tone, he engaged in house- hold chores!
By Gods grace, he suggested another shop where easy print outs were
available.
But, I could take my print out from there… (Thank God,
Acrobat Reader was available!).
I thought Tamil people don’t spend much on houses. Rich
or poor, they adjust life in minimum conditions. Many run houses and shops
or small business firms under the same roof. This has been a good lesson to
Keralites who spend too much on houses, rather major share of their earnings
over a lifetime, even sacrificing life, on brick and mortar.
I travelled some more distance to reach the shop. There
was a lady engaged in busy DTP works. She told me it was possible to get
cards ready within half an hour. Relieved! But I had to wait another 45
minutes more to get the cards. While waiting for the cards, I wondered to
hear the sound of bullock cart. Really, I saw an old man was going with his
bullock-cart. With' hot cards' in pocket; I rushed back to Egmore to attend
the program.
Multiple Modes for Mobility
Public
transportation in Chennai is more attractive. There are plenty of electric
trains and transport buses bound to small and big towns. The number of
transport buses has increased.
Roads were neat and clean than before. Dedicated
workers were deployed in city and suburban areas to clean the garbage.
All the modes have their own importance in Chennai.
Nobody scorns at rickshaw men or cycle riders and
pedestrians in the city.
Most of the motorists pay respect to cycle- riders and
pedestrians.
Manual riders have their own freedom similar to
transport buses and other motor vehicles.
Definitely Chennai has changed lot in all its spheres.
Roads and bridges, trains and buses, platforms and
passengers...
Many fly -over and pompous sky-scrappers have marked
the new face of Chennai.
Slums and polished streets are there to know Chennai
more.
Many women drive their vehicles in Chennai streets than
before.
They are equally respected in towns. No comments or
unwanted looks on them by other travelers.
The attitude of Chennai is really cosmopolitan. That is
entirely different from Calicut.
People’s mindset has been changed and they don’t
interfere in other’s style or drive.
After lunch, I had hectic schedule to attend the
evening program.
Dear Mosquitoes...please leave me alone
In the late night I realized that Egmore mosquitoes
were more prowess than Kochi species!
(I had the bitter experience of biting of Kochi
mosquitoes during my PG days.)They celebrated the night as they got a new
victim. I lost my sleep in any case. So I woke up and listened to some
melodies from my iPod. Then I scanned some magazines. The attackers (better
to call suicide squads!) might have felt some sympathy on me. At least for
few minutes they left me alone.
Even I scolded them with all known languages, later I
thanked them for arranging me odd hours to read and enjoy music!
Falling to a light sleep, I heard the sounds of people
who were getting ready for catching early morning train to reach their job
places.
At Mylapore Temple
The next morning I decided to move again to streets to
experience Chennai,to observe the changes over years, with patience.
As I treaded slowly, I reached Mylapore Kapaleeshwarar
temple (Temple of Shiva) situated in city premises.
The age-old structure looked great with sculptures,
colour pillars and scriptures.
Cows and calves were also kept in the temple premise.
A charming temple-pond with hundreds of fishes outside
the temple premise attracts many.
Water-birds were seen moving around. There are
beautifully sculptured small towers in that pond also. Some of the
devotees who visit the temple would go to feed fishes in that pond, said to
be a blessed rite.
A priest was sitting there to guide the devotees who
come for darshan and feeding the fish.
While asked on the way of ritual, he told me, "Lord
likes this traditional offering of food to fishes."
Outside food was not allowed here. The prasadams from
the temple alone is permitted, he clarified in Tamil.
I stood there for few minutes, enjoying the beauty of
the pond and wonderful sight of fishes that were so friendly with the
devotees turned there.
Tender Coconuts
While returning from Mylapore Kovil, there were bunch
of tender-coconuts in front of a house gate. Needless to say, we can't even
imagine the real taste of Kerala 'ilaneers'(Malayalam word for
tender-coconut)
‘Ilaneer- energy', definitely gave me some confidence.
I didn’t look for an auto at least for few minutes.
I walked along the road near by CPR Aiyyar Foundation
Office (Eldams Road, Alwarpet).
I moved some more steps and entered into a tea-shop run
by Malayalis.
After zipping the medium 'chaya' (Malayalam word
for tea. There are many varieties like strong medium and light teas,
measuring the quantity of tea powder used in it.) I walked some more
distance along Teynampet market where vegetables and fish were sold on the
road side. Being one of the crowded business centres, Teynampet is also
famous for coconut sales.
Later I caught a bus from Teynampet town to reach
Central railway station.
Some of the tired cycle-rickshaw workers were seen
sleeping on road side pavement.
Chennai Central Railway station gets a facelift
Travelling under the hot sun was tough in Chennai. I
decided to go to Central railway station. After lunch, I scanned some
newspapers and magazines. Still I had few hours for my journey back home. I
turned to be a roamer until the train time.
Chennai central railway station has changed with many
add –on and facilities.
Passengers are benefited with comfortable chairs and
retiring zones.
Transport buses come very near to the railway station
premise. It looked more convenient for passengers.
Special vehicles on platforms used for easy mobility of
physically disabled or sick and aged passengers were a new sight. This is a
private sponsored system.
Many groups of Ayyappa devotees were surrounded in the
platform. Some had even performed Kettunira under Guru Swamis.
Internet cafe in the platform seemed crowded.
There are many good restaurants, quick snack centers
and shops.
Can I forget to buy my favorite cake? Never. I searched
for the great old traditional brands to complete my trip. When I was
collecting the delicious ones, I flew to my childhood days.
Indeed, my father asked me, ‘Did you buy enough? He
knew me better! how I liked Chennai Cakes?
(Indeed, my father has been my best friend and guide
during my Chennai trips.)
The old traditional look was still there amidst the
reforms, just same as the life and style of Chennai.
Dogs with permanent residing status in platform were
examining every nook and corner of the platform!
Some of the train-thieves were caught by police from
the platfrorm.Many passengers turned their attention towards that direction.
The security system of Railway Protection Force has been intensified hence
the confidence of passengers doubled. Still, there were some pick-pockets,
but most of the criminals were caught by police.
I had some more time to relax. I searched for best
musical albums from the CD shop in the platform.
There were enough collection of devotional music and
classical items. I picked MS Subhalakshmi’s devotional CD. The book shops in
the railway station were also modernized. Best selling classics to light
reading stuffs were available for purchase.
Cycle Rickshaw-the old marks
I found one cycle-rickshaw man, sleeping in the
rickshaw outside Mylapore temple, near by the shore of the divine pond. I
really liked the green place with big and small plants and flowers. I
experienced the cool, gentle breeze while walking along Mylapore. The
surrounded areas had a mix of big and small residences.
There were a few cycle-rickshaws in front of the
Chennai Central station gate, also. When they surrounded the station for a
while, the police came and threatened some of them to move away. But one guy
didn’t care police' words and continued to remain there with a smoking beedi
on his lips. Later he was beaten by the police and moved to another side. I
wondered how that police man could be so cruel with the poor, lean rickshaw
man.
Glimpse of Chennai evenings- an epitome of equality?
Chennai was looking traditionally beautiful in its
romantic evenings with fragrant flowers and aromatics. Kovils (small temples
in city) were more crowded with devotees than morning. Jasmine garland,
jamanthis and roses were plenty on city.
The subway in front of central station takes you to the
other side of Chennai. Hawkers were there with as many as items.
'Nalla pazhamark....romba kammiyayirik vila....
(Good banana, price also is cheap)'said sellers.
I bought some bananas, it looked so fresh. Really it
was tasty too.
The sub-way vendors and sellers with their family and
children were same as the old story years ago.
Tea shops and snack centers in front of General
Hospital also turned unchanged. Large numbers of people were gathered there
to have their fast snacks.
Basic attitude reflected in all spheres of their lives.
On the subway step a woman was counting her apples that
were kept there for sale. There were lot of woman who occupied there to sell
flowers and other small items. Flowers and garlands sold like hot cakes in
front of Central Railway station. From small children to old women wore
flower garlands.
Many poor women worked as equal bread-winner of families; they
earned money by selling flowers in city premises. The sights were
interesting, while mothers were engaged in selling items in front of Chennai
Central Station, their kids surrounded nearby, elder kids taking care of
younger. Many road side merchants keep their small children along with them.
They try to find out their own family space in the big crowded city. They
could make a space with mats or tarpaulins to run their business. It
doesn’t matter whether the space is just near by big shopping malls!
Chennai- as unique as
ever-towards development, conserving roots
While marching towards development in their
infrastructure, the old icons of growth were visible in one way or other.
The rare bullock-carts in modern metros could be seen in Chennai (even if
the numbers have fallen down greatly).That is Chennai. Here electric cars or
bullock cart doesn't bother people. They are moving and working their own
way with traditions kept with their heart, firmly.
At the same time couples carrying their infants in
baby-carriage while going for outings were also seen.
May be the slow and steady development, the adage of
Chennai without demolishing all the ancient pillars of development?
Still Chennai is moving fast without giving any
compromise on customs and beliefs.
Chennai has a beauty with a colorful blend of tradition
and modernity.
